Monday 27 February 2012

royal loam

Our recent and memorable Victorian weekend could not have finished in a better place: Drysdale.




The reason to end up in such a nice and unpredictable location was nothing but LOAM restaurant.




This was our second visit, which absolutely reconfirmed my first impression from last November: after five years visiting the island, this is still my number one place to enjoy amazing food down under.




A combination of their smoky butter with chocolate bread initiated a palpable escalation of digestive excitement. 




Our starters wrongly suggested this was going to be a repetition of our first LOAM meal. They were still delicious, in particular, the salmon jerky with dill.




The first of our eleven courses was served: marron, lychee, turnip, macadamia  and celery. All of it escorted by a glass of 2008 François Chidaine "Les Tuffeaux", Mont Louis Sur Loire.




Oyster, butter, potato and curry were the key ingredients of chapter two, which worked perfectly with an excellent 2010 Bindi "Compostion" Chardonnay from Michael Dhillon's great vineyards in Gisborne.




A perfectly camouflaged egg yolk was hidden under a kind of bucolic and dry bush of cauliflower, asparagus mixed with sherry vinegar and oatmeal. A 2010 Leura Park "Voix de la Terre" Fumé Blanc was the nice matching selection.




Snapper was our fish of the day. An incredibly colourful presentation made it irresistible, even for anyone not big on fish. A dried black Russian tomato, salted lemon and samphire provided the right twist. The liquid context came from an unfiltered 2011 Jauma "Blewitt Springs" Chenin Blanc.




Salted rabbit, green apple, sunrose and quinoa became a fabulous exercise of textural fun, without having to push the limits. A 2011 Petite Manseng "Saludo al Txakolí" from Los Hermanos' Crittenden Estate in Dromana, Mornington Peninsula.




Shiitake mushrooms, cheese rind, onion, cucumber plus tea tree fungus made our sixth dish, which one more time triggered all the senses in a highly elegant  fashion. Luke Lambert's 2010 "Crudo" Shiraz from the Yarra Valley was a handy option for such a woody sensation.




The pork arrived undercover. It was watercress, lettuce hearts, purslane and a portion of pork jowl. The 2008 Müller-Catoir "Gutswein" Qba Trocken arriving to our table was a great support for this piggy moment.




Not only because purple is probably my favourite colour, but also because -aged- duck, beetroot, -purple- carrot and popcorn have such unique components, this plate was a real beauty to stare at, and immediately digest with a real sense of adventure. An outstanding 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Pyrenees, by Mitchell Harris, made it all work like a jumbo jet.




The last leg of this divine afternoon was inaugurated by a pretty plate of Bruny island C2 cheese, apple and rose. 




A glass of 2007 "Wally White" Semillon Viognier by The Islander graciously was part of this ninth nutritious instalment.



Berries, rhubarb, pine yoghurt, wild fennel and milk made a quite refreshing dessert. Perfectly matching a 2010 Michele Chiarlo "Nivole" Moscato D'Asti.




The eleventh course was not only mind blowing, but a perfect conclusion: fig leaf, wild plum, molasses, mint and grass. 



My thirsty throat was pleased to enjoy a glass of NV Domaine Mosse "Moussamoussettes", vin de France. A little bit of sparkling also helped. 

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