Lugo is one of those ugly small cities you can often find in "modern" Spain. An undeveloped notion of "progress" combined with useless architects plus the juicy cuts local politicians got for decades from those horrendous developments, have literally ruined not only the landscape of these now kind of inhabitable towns, but even the old charm of their downtowns.
The city hall is an interesting exception, which unfortunately has nothing to do with the actual city lack of elegance. Anyway, the reason for my recent trip to Lugo was revisiting a restaurant where my grandfather used to take my mother when she was a little girl. I think it has been close to ten years since last time I was there.
The beginning of this was the so typical "polbo a feira" (market style octopus). Served on a wooden plate, just like in the street markets, it has to come with a potato, so the olive oil together with the "pimentón" and octopus juice compose a spectacular flavour.
"Boquerones" (marinated anchovies) came at the same time, as a complimentary little bite; basically an easy "tapa" to ignite our digestive protocols.
A 2007 bottle of Matarromera, from Balbuena de Duero, was a nice companion, especially for the following meat dishes: "perdiz" (partridge) and "ternera" (beef).
The bird came with a ton of onions. Afterwards it was time for what we know as "chuletón" (t-bone), ideal for those days when I feel the urgency of having meat.
The end of each meal at Verruga was always "tocinillo de cielo" (heaven's little lard, is the literal translation), a childhood highlight. As expected, our dessert was a very dense one -quite full of egg yalk and sugar-, so a small amount is more than enough, before it becomes a too rich experience. It does require reserving room for it.
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