axpe valley

It was this rainy Saturday that we had the best meal of the year, so far. After a long drive through Galiza, Asturies, Cantabria, La Rioja and Euskadi, we parked the car in a gorgeous spot where food acquires a glorious dimension.

Atxondo happens to contain a fabulously small architectural treasure that makes the outdoor visuals of the visit a quite spectacular one.

Goat's butter with topping ashes to start the lactose share of the afternoon already marked the greatness of what was about to come.

Queso fresco from Víctor's buffalas with honey and shaved hazelnuts was a pretty sweet and silky start.

Home marinated anchovies from the Cantábrico were simply spectacular. And I can say this after visiting Santoña -the Spanish capital of anchovies- the day before.

Their very own rectangular chorizo ibérico, which somehow reminded me of the old "zorza" moments, was as tasteful as it could possibly get.

This cooked oyster with hidden spinach was without a doubt the best non-raw one I have ever had.

A beautiful pair of gambas de Palamós, perfectly cooked, and full of Mediterranean grace helped consolidating the marine part of this omnivore celebration of Basque ungodly talent.

Not having a Pedralonga option on the wine list, for physical proximity I contemplated the Rioja alavesa possibilities, which normally would not be the region where my brain would gravitate towards regarding white wines. So, we risked it, and I followed the good advice from our sommelier du jour. Our 2013 bottle of Qué bonito Cacareaba made the afternoon shine.

A nice "espardeña" (sea cucumber) with white beans came next. Even if it wasn't the highlight of the day, it fitted perfectly well in the overall experience.

Six pulpitos on caramelized onion plus their own ink provided the cutely sweet step of this wonderful trip.

White truffle "revuelto" completed the truffle duet with a far deeper and richer  sense of truffleness.

Cod "kokotxas" were a specially requested double chin dish, which I always enjoy, but given the high standards of the meal, they weren't able to shine with the usual intensity.

Cooked to perfection "besugo (sea bream) y verduras" almost felt like one of those traditional home meals you never forget. A perfect dose of magnificent and simple authenticity.

I honestly think this "chuleta de vaca" would have made cried any proud vegetarian who had the courage to try it. I probably can count with one hand the number of times I enjoyed such a creamy and intense explosion of flavour,  on every single bite of the way.

Desert time started with an extremely refreshing reduced milk ice-cream with beetroot juice.

This was our second coming into exceptional dining in the Axpe valley, one that I could easily keep replicating for ever.